A foodie's guide to Hobart, Tasmania

In case you missed my obsessive Instagram posting, I recently went on a week long trip to Tasmania. The home of MONA (which legitimises the flight there in itself) Hobart is a bit of an undiscovered treasure, not just for the art connoisseur, but for the wannabe art connoisseur, and more importantly, for the foodie. 

Moody Cape Bruny on Bruny Island 

Moody Cape Bruny on Bruny Island 

Jetstar, you're looking glamourous 

Jetstar, you're looking glamourous 

Hobart itself could be likened to a big town, as opposed to a small city. The first clue lies in the little, homey airport, that is so cute and country that you just want to squeeze it. The centre of Hobart, like that airport, is small, unassuming and easy to navigate. Perfect for when your Dad is driving a rental car and insists he knows a short cut. Also perfect for when you have a list as long as your arm of food places you want to try, and insist to the people you are dragging along that 'it won't take long to get there, promise.'

The Cape Bruny lighthouse 

The Cape Bruny lighthouse 

David Walsh's car park at MONA

David Walsh's car park at MONA

FOOD

Straight Up Coffee And Food
Probably a first stop for all the gluten free vegetarians, considering that Straight Up is dedicated to 100% gluten free and vegetarian food. My Dad, an absolute coffee connoisseur/snob, was also confident that this was the best coffee he had in Tasmania. So much so, that he let me go back for a second breakfast. Winners all around. 

House made gluten free toast with ricotta, smashed banana, poached pears and date cinnamon syrup 

House made gluten free toast with ricotta, smashed banana, poached pears and date cinnamon syrup 

Providore Hobart
This cute little Pinterest worthy cafe is well worth a venture. A serve yourself style salad bar (the salads are ever changing) it's a great place to grab a salad and a coffee, and fill up your phone with photos of said treats against their perfectly vintage white wooden window-side tables. 

Salads of the day, house made lemonade and a piccolo

Salads of the day, house made lemonade and a piccolo

Vita Frozen Yoghurt
In good company (and assumedly the same company) Vita is next door to Providore. It is somewhat like the froyo stores you may be accustomed to, except for the fact that the yoghurt is handmade with fresh milk, and there are some delightfully out of the ordinary flavours, such as earl gray. My favourite part, however, is the toppings, which are more poached rhubarb or quince, and less twix pieces or generic sugar coated granola. Yes thanks. 

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Ethos Hobart
Next door again (I did say Hobart was small) is Ethos, and boy, what an absolute treat this was. A seven course degustation menu, based around the idea of paddock to plate, this is one of my highest rated foodie experiences in Tasmania. The food is beautiful, thoughtful and generous, and can easily be adapted to all dietary requirements. Each course was a delightful revelation, and testament to the fact that simple, wholesome food can be amazing. Each dish and it's origins is explained to you by one of the lovely waitresses, which I think is fantastic. A must do.

Hola Pinterest

Hola Pinterest

Pilgrim 
Great coffee, a cute little set up, and gold (insert love heart eyes) tables, for the 'grammer in all of us. I had polenta and halloumi with eggs, and really, is there anything more that you could want in a breakfast?

Mum's waffles with poached quince and lemon curd

Mum's waffles with poached quince and lemon curd

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Pigeonhole Cafe
This is an unassuming, cute little hideaway a bit further up from the centre of town. A review of it mentioned that the locals are likely to bump into each other there, given that it is a bit of an institution. I myself recognised a lady who had taken my ticket at MONA the day before, so I guess it is true - the internet never lies. I had baked eggs, and combined them with baked beans. No gluten free bread here, so treat yourself to an extra dish or an extra coffee. Ur worth it.

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Berta
My googling told me that there was a fig and haloumi salad on the menu, so naturally this in itself necessitated a visit. Alas, fig season had departed and so had that menu item (only 3 days prior, what is life?) but I nonetheless enjoyed my pomegranate, quinoa, goats cheese and carrot salad. May it be noted that my Mum was a touch star struck when she noticed (NAME) stroll in. There are celebrities in Hobart too, you know. 

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Glasshouse 
We visited Glasshouse on the night of my Padre's 60th birthday, which fell in the soft opening period at Glasshouse. Having spent the day at MONA, after which father decided to knock back a few absinthes and reminisce on his youth, we arrived at Glasshouse via the MONA ferry, which felt fitting and seamless, and a little bit hazy. Although the full menu was not yet unveiled, the menu to which we were treated was a delightful fusion of Japanese and whichever cuisine invented. A few wines, cocktails, and absinthes down, I was a little forgetful, but man - those chips. If you like Japanese mayo, and you like sriracha - get here. 

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Bruny Island Cheese Company
Obviously not strictly in Hobart (did the word Island tip you off?) but I feel its inclusion is warranted given the distance between the two. Only a half hour drive and a short car ferry away from Hobart, Bruny Island cheese company is well worth a visit and a leisurely lunch. There is also a lovely lighthouse and beautiful scenery on Bruny Island, but you know, cheese. As a cheese enthusiast, I was a little bit in heaven. BYO gluten free bread/crackers.

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Garden of Vegan
Ok again, not so much in Hobart as in Launceston, but hey, there are no rules here. Dad and I decided to do a quick daytrip across to Launceston (and spent a solid five in the car) but let me tell you, it was worth it purely for this. I had a gluten free, vegan (obvs) Banh Xeo, with a delightful turmeric and coconut crepe filled with delicious vegies. I finished with a raw choc mint cake, and could not have been more impressed.

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A few great places for coffee: All of the above plus Tricycle and Parklane Espresso

Salamanca Markets 

Salamanca Markets 

My best grainy Iphone photo of the Hobart harbour by night

My best grainy Iphone photo of the Hobart harbour by night

Moody beaches on Bruny Island

Moody beaches on Bruny Island

A few places that I didn't manage to get to but wish I did: Smolt, Frank (South American) Franklin (Modern Australian brunchy food) Small Fry (brunch food) 

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